Kunming: the mild gateway to Yunnan
Two days in Kunming itself — the Stone Forest, Green Lake and Yunnan's mushroom cooking — as the first stop of a Dali and Lijiang route.
The short answer
Kunming needs two days on its own and works best as the first stop of a Yunnan loop. Day one covers Green Lake Park, Yuantong Temple and the provincial museum; day two is the Stone Forest, 90 km east. High-speed rail reaches Dali in 2 hours and Lijiang in 3.
- At 1,890 m (6,200 ft) Kunming is mild all year — 15–22°C — and needs no acclimatisation.
- The Stone Forest is 90 km east: entry ¥130 plus a ¥25 shuttle, and a half-day.
- Kunming to Dali is 2 hours and to Lijiang 3 hours by rail, both under ¥230.
- Come November to April for dry weather; June to August is the rainy season.
The province around it
Kunming is the junction for the whole province — every train north to Dali and Lijiang leaves from there, the Stone Forest is an hour away, and it is the flattest, mildest place to adjust to the altitude first. Yunnan →
The Spring City
Kunming sits at 1,890 m (6,200 ft) in a bowl of hills, which gives it a mild, dry climate in most months: 15–22°C by day and sun even in winter. It is the capital of Yunnan and the practical gateway to Dali, Lijiang and the Tibetan borderlands, but the city itself rewards a day or two. Green Lake Park fills at dawn with dancers and calligraphers, and the 1,200-year-old Yuantong Temple is a short walk to the south.
The Stone Forest
Ninety kilometres (56 miles) east of the city, the Stone Forest is 350 sq km of limestone pinnacles up to 30 m (98 ft) high, formed around 270 million years ago. Entry is ¥130 plus ¥25 for the electric shuttle, and it takes a full half-day. Direct buses leave Kunming's East Bus Station every 20 minutes and take 90 minutes; the high-speed train to Shilin West is an hour, then a 25-minute shuttle. Go on a weekday — coach parties arrive from 10:00 at weekends.
Eating and drinking in Yunnan style
Kunming's food is lighter than Sichuan's, built on herbs, mushrooms and rice noodles. Crossing-the-bridge noodles cost ¥25–40: the broth arrives scalding and you add raw egg and meat at the table. From July to September the markets sell wild porcini and chanterelles by the basket, and Yunnan coffee, grown on the hills to the south-west, is now taken seriously. A mid-range city hotel runs ¥350–550 (about £38–60) a night.
The Stone Forest
350 sq km of limestone pinnacles, 90 km east. ¥130 plus a ¥25 shuttle; quieter on a weekday.
Green Lake Park
The city's living room, free and busiest at dawn, ten minutes from the centre.
Yuantong Temple
A 1,200-year-old Buddhist complex with a pond. Entry ¥6; an hour.
Western Hills and Dragon Gate
A cliff-carved grotto above Dianchi Lake. Entry ¥40 plus a ¥70 cable car.
Yunnan Provincial Museum
Bronzes and minority textiles from across the province. Free, closed Mondays.
Practical
| Province | Yunnan |
|---|---|
| Airport code | KMG (Kunming Changshui International) |
| Direct flights from the UK | None — one stop via Beijing, Shanghai or Bangkok, 14–18 hours |
| High-speed rail connections | Dali 2h · Lijiang 3h · Guiyang 2h · Guangzhou 4h30 |
| Days needed | 2 (in the city) |
| Best months | November–April, the dry season |
| Local food to try | Crossing-the-bridge noodles, steam-pot chicken, wild mushrooms |
| Altitude | 1,890 m (6,200 ft) — no acclimatisation needed |
| Daytime temperature | 15–22°C (59–72°F) in most months |
| Stone Forest entry | ¥130 plus a ¥25 shuttle |
Getting there from the UK
There is no non-stop flight from the UK to Kunming (KMG); fly one stop via Beijing, Shanghai or Bangkok, in 14 to 18 hours. Changshui International is 25 km (16 miles) north-east: metro Line 6 reaches the eastern railway station in 30 minutes for ¥5, and a taxi to the centre is ¥100–130. Kunming South is the province's high-speed hub — Dali in 2 hours (¥145), Lijiang in 3 hours (¥220).
How many days
Two days covers Kunming itself: the Stone Forest on one, the parks and museum on the other. Yunnan's real draw is the loop south and west, so five days is the usual shape — two here, two in Dali, one in Lijiang. Add three or four for Shangri-La, which sits at 3,160 m.
Worth knowing if you're travelling from the UK
Kunming is where British visitors most often misjudge the weather. Because it is 'tropical' Yunnan, people pack for heat; in fact January days reach about 15°C (59°F) but nights fall near 3°C (37°F). UV is strong at 1,890 m, so bring sunscreen.